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1750 Franklin Way, Sparks · off Greg St
Guide

How to strap down any load

Pick what you're hauling for the full step-by-step guide. The basics are the same for everything: heavy end forward, centered, strapped to the trailer, and rechecked after a few miles.

Cars

Cars and small SUVs

Loading on the gravity tilt or drive-over, strapping all four tires, and using the winch on a car that won't run.

  • Engine slightly ahead of the axles

  • One strap over each tire

  • Recheck within the first 10 miles

Grey sedan with shiny chrome rims on a flatbed trailer in an industrial area at dusk.
Trucks

Pickups, duallies and big SUVs

Which trailer fits a dually or lifted truck, how much your truck weighs, and what you need to tow it.

Silver pickup truck partially loaded onto a black vehicle trailer in a suburban neighborhood.
Two men near a trailer carrying black equipment secured with red straps in an industrial parking area.

Equipment, sheds and containers

Skid steers, tractors, UTVs, sheds and 20' containers on the deckover. Tie-down points, buckets down, straps over the top.

Black flatbed trailer carrying wooden furniture pieces parked in lot with white trucks and mountains in background.
Utility trailers

Dump runs, moves and materials

Loading the 5x10 and 7x14 for dump runs and moves, strapping furniture and appliances, and tarping yard waste.

Heavy stuff against the front wall

Strap tall items on their own

Tarp anything that can blow out

Mistakes

Mistakes we see most

No matter what you're hauling, these are the ones to avoid.

Mistake

Load too far back

The number one cause of trailer sway. Keep the heavy end slightly ahead of the trailer's wheels.

Empty black flatbed trailer parked at a Chevron gas station pump at night.

Not rechecking straps

Loads settle once you're moving. Pull over within the first 5 to 10 miles and tighten again.

Hooking to the wrong spot

Bumpers, steps, suspension and hydraulic lines aren't anchors. Use the trailer's tie-down points and the load's tie-down loops or frame.

Load off to one side

An off-center load pulls the trailer sideways and wears out tires. Same gap on both sides.

Overloading the trailer

Every trailer lists its max load on its page. Heavy machines on the deckover are where people usually go over.

Checklist

Before you drive

One walk around the trailer before you pull out.

Load is centered on the trailer

Heavy end slightly forward, same gap on both sides.

All straps and chains are tight

Push on the load. Nothing should move.

Ramps stowed, deck latched

Pull-out ramps slid back in and pinned, or the tilt deck latched down.

Trailer lights are connected and working

Running lights, brake lights and both turn signals.

Flatbed trailer loaded with large bales of hay secured with straps in a rural setting.
Final

Jack up, tires look good

Tongue jack cranked all the way up, and no tire looks low.

FAQs

Quick answers. Each guide has more detail for your load.

How many straps do I need?

Four for cars, trucks and equipment, one at each corner. Add more for heavy machines or tall loads. Car haulers and the deckover come with straps. For utility trailers, bring your own.

Should I use straps or chains?

Ratchet straps for cars, trucks, sheds and household stuff. Chains and binders for heavy steel machines. You can add chains and binders to any car hauler or deckover booking for $24.99. Never use rope or bungees for anything heavy.

How tight should ratchet straps be?

Tight enough that the strap doesn't flap and the load doesn't move when you push on it. Don't crank so hard you dent appliances or crush a shed.

How often should I recheck straps?

Within the first 5 to 10 miles, then every time you stop for gas or a break.

Where do I hook the straps?

To the trailer's tie-down points on one end, and over the tires, the load's tie-down loops or its frame on the other. Never bumpers, suspension or brake parts.